Jim Whittaker, the renowned climber who became the first American to summit Mount Everest, died Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend at the age of 97.
His family described him as a warm and optimistic person who devoted his life to sharing a love of adventure and a deep respect for the natural world.
Whittaker made history in 1963 when he reached Everest’s summit alongside Nawang Gombu, a decade after the mountain was first climbed. The achievement propelled the once-reserved climber into national prominence and helped spark widespread interest in mountaineering across the United States.
Beyond climbing, Whittaker played a major role in shaping outdoor culture as the first full-time employee—and later president and CEO—of REI. Under his leadership in the 1970s, the co-op’s membership nearly quadrupled. He was also a strong advocate for conservation, using his influence to support the creation of protected areas such as North Cascades National Park, Pasayten Wilderness, and Redwood National Park.
He believed nature had a unique ability to unite people, a principle he demonstrated during the 1990 Mount Everest International Peace Climb, which brought together climbers from the United States, the Soviet Union, and China.
Whittaker was also closely connected to the Kennedy family, particularly Robert F. Kennedy, with whom he climbed a Canadian peak later named Mount Kennedy. His passion for climbing began early alongside his twin brother, Lou Whittaker, during their Boy Scouts days in the 1940s. Lou, also a celebrated climber, died in 2024.
He is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts, and their three sons. Former Washington Governor Jay Inslee said Whittaker’s legacy is as enduring and inspiring as the mountains he spent his life climbing.
